Microdermabrasion is a minimally invasive, non-painful procedure that removes the outer layer of skin called the stratum corneum. The procedure is most often performed with a handheld vacuum system.
People who receive microdermabrasion treatments typically do so for cosmetic reasons, including treating uneven skin tone or scars. Microdermabrasion can also help topical medications absorb into the skin more easily.1
While at-home microdermabrasion kits are available for purchase, a dermatologist or facial plastic surgeon may be able to do a more thorough job.2 Aestheticians, medical assistants, and nurses can also perform microdermabrasion. No anesthesia is needed, and there are minimal side effects.1
Purpose of Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is essentially a sophisticated exfoliation process. Over time, the new skin that forms will be more healthful than the outer layer of skin that was removed with the wand device.1
This is partly due to the increase in collagen, a protein that helps keep skin firm but is produced less as you age. With increased collagen from microdermabrasion, you can have younger-looking and more absorbent skin.1
Who Is It For?
Microdermabrasion may be an effective option if you want to remove or reduce certain skin issues or generally desire a younger, more rejuvenated look. Those who have had the procedure describe their skin as having an improved glow, softness, and texture.1
With that in mind, the procedure is almost always done for cosmetic purposes. It’s one of the most common nonsurgical cosmetic procedures in the U.S.1
Microdermabrasion can be performed on any skin area, including the face, neck, thighs, and abdomen.34 The procedure is often used to treat:52
- Acne and blackheads
- Acne scars
- Age spots
- Darkened skin patches and melasma (a skin condition that causes patches and spots, usually on the face)
- Enlarged pores
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Stretch marks
- Sun damage
- Uneven skin tones or texture
Microdermabrasion might also be beneficial if you take medication, such as insulin, through the skin. Research has shown that receiving microdermabrasion in the area where the medication will be applied can improve medication delivery. However, more research is needed to know for sure.1
Microdermabrasion vs. Chemical Peels
Microdermabrasion and chemical peels are both exfoliating treatments with similar goals: to remove dead skin cells and reveal a more glowing complexion. While microdermabrasion uses microcrystals, chemical peels use chemicals like alpha hydroxy acids or salicylic acid.6
Microdermabrasion might be the option for you if you prefer a more gentle procedure with no downtime. It was introduced in 1985 as a less aggressive alternative to chemical peels.1
In particular, chemical peels are effective with long-lasting results, but the preparation, discomfort, and recovery are more intense. Some people have to start prepping their skin up to four weeks before their appointment. Healing can also last between one and 21 days afterward.7
Types of Microdermabrasion
The two types of microdermabrasion are crystal-based and crystal-free. While the two are different, they yield similar results.
Crystal-Based Systems
Crystal-based microdermabrasion involves using a hand-held wand that sends crystals—like aluminum oxide crystals—over the skin. There’s also a vacuum component to the system, which sucks up the crystals and loose or dead skin.18
Crystal-Free Systems
As the name suggests, crystal-free microdermabrasion does not require crystals to stream across the skin. The hand-held wand contains diamonds that provide gentle exfoliation.8
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How Does It Work?
Microdermabrasion is performed outpatient, meaning you do not have to stay in a bed or overnight for evaluation. It can be performed in medical offices, salons, and spas. The procedure is also considered safe, with very few side effects.1
Most people require between five and 16 treatments to see results. You can purchase at-home microdermabrasion kits, but having a professional perform the procedure is safer and more thorough. Seeing a dermatologist or facial plastic surgeon, for example, can reduce your risk of side effects.4
Before the Procedure
If a trained healthcare provider is performing your microdermabrasion, consider having a consultation before the actual appointment. This gives you time to evaluate the professional and decide if microdermabrasion is your best option for reaching your skincare goals.9
Once it’s been determined that microdermabrasion may be an appropriate procedure for you, know that microdermabrasion treatment is generally quick. It takes 30-40 minutes for the entire face and 20 minutes for the neck.4 Since anesthesia isn’t needed, you’ll be awake the whole time.
During the Procedure
You’ll likely be led to a private room where your skincare professional will prep the skin area where you’ll be treated. They’ll gently brush your face with the instrument, exfoliating your skin. It’s not painful; if anything, you can expect a mild scratching or vibrating sensation.8
The professional will pass over the treated area about three times. When done, they will wipe away any remaining crystals and debris and apply a gentle moisturizer.1
After the Procedure
One reason microdermabrasion is a popular nonsurgical cosmetic procedure is that it doesn’t require downtime or a recovery period. Even without downtime or recovery periods, you’ll still have to wait a while to see the procedure’s effectiveness.
It may take four to six weeks to see the results you want.1 Depending on your goals and skin type, you may need to return for additional treatments. Many people receive treatments weekly, every two weeks, or once a month.4
While results are typically temporary, you can try to prolong them in a couple of ways. Ask your skin care provider for moisturizer or other skincare product suggestions.10 You should also wear sunscreen outside, especially the week after your treatment, as your skin will be more sun sensitive.111
Risks and Precautions
Microdermabrasion is safe for all skin types and has minimal side effects.210 You may notice some swelling or a reddish or pinkish tint on your skin. This should only last about a day or so.4
Who Shouldn’t Get Microdermabrasion?
There are a few instances when you should get more information from a healthcare provider before completing the treatment at home, in an office, or at a spa.
Talk to a healthcare provider if you have any signs of skin cancer. This could include a mole that is bleeding or has changed over time. You’ll want to get that checked out before removing a layer of your skin with microdermabrasion.4
You’ll also want to check with a healthcare provider if you have taken the acne medication isotretinoin (Accutane) in the last six months. The medication can put you at higher risk for microdermabrasion complications, including scarring. You should also see whether microdermabrasion is right for you if you tend to scar easily.4
You may want to avoid treatment for at least two weeks before major life events, like a wedding or birthday celebration. Some people experience short-term redness or petechiae—round, pinpoint spots—after the procedure.1
How To Prepare for Microdermabrasion
Go to your consultation appointment with your medical history and a list of allergies you have and/or medications you’re taking. Discuss any skincare concerns you may have. You should also bring a list of questions; a few you may want to ask include:9
- Can I see before-and-after photos of your patients?
- Who will perform the procedure, and how?
- What results can I expect, and when?
- Based on my skin and medical history, are there possible complications I should be worried about?
- Is there another technique that is simpler or that may better achieve my skin goals?
- How many sessions do you anticipate me needing?
Consult with a professional if you’re planning on using an at-home microdermabrasion tool. It’s a good idea to ensure you’re a good candidate for the procedure.
How Much Does Microdermabrasion Cost?
An important question is how much microdermabrasion will cost—especially if your provider tells you it is something you will have to repeat to get your desired result.
The average cost of a single microdermabrasion treatment is $167. However, that can change depending on your provider, the frequency of treatments, and where you live.12
At-home microdermabrasion kits, which you can find everywhere in stores and online, have a wide range of prices. You might expect to pay below and well above $100.
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A Quick Review
Talk to a healthcare professional about microdermabrasion if there’s something about your complexion you want to minimize or erase. The minimally invasive, widely available procedure is gentle on skin, low in risk, and effective in improving a variety of skin features.
Microdermabrasion can help with skin conditions like stretch marks, enlarged pores, age spots, fine lines, and acne scars. It can even be done at home, but for the safest and most effective treatment, look for an expert who can do it in their office or medical spa.